Every summer, as soon as I spy the first really good tomatoes at the farmers market or in my own garden — the ones you can smell before you even get a chance to taste them — I buy the biggest ones I can find. Then I stop at a supermarket on the way home to get something I reserve for just this occasion: squishy white bread. And, if I don’t have it at home, I make sure to also pick up a jar of Duke’s mayonnaise.
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